29 Aug 2010

One off the list-One in the bank

After last weeks entertainment, the google views of the edge further north at Saltergate had me wondering? - some big shadows?
Saltergate Sandstone
Turned out to be a some very odd looking sandstone layers with strange looking bubble pockets in it? with some large enough to climb inside! (Geologists please tell me all about this)
Bizarre Pocketed Roof
Then the heavens opened so we retreated back to the car and headed to Round Crag following the clearer skies.
Rainbow Wall
After a dabble on Rainbow Wall - Liam and Brandon were keen to have a go at a problem I had seen a few weeks ago opposite Round Crag - onwards as the crow flies.....
Brandon on an early attempt
Depravation SS Font 7a+***
Bradon's smelly socks! SS font 6b (very tricky)
Quality isolated Moors classic's with more rock northwest to investigate - thanks lads for another mad-venture on the Moors (Click Here for Location)

25 Aug 2010

Moors Bouldering Meet

Having nearly got to the half century of bouldering venues on the Moors. Thought it was time to have some kind of meet or get together to celebrate and share some of the projects and new circuits we have found.
So if anyone is interested? We will be hosting a meet on Blakey Ridge some time in October.
Email me at: lee@betaguides.com - if you are interested?
Venues will cater for all grades and abilities, with first ascents to be done from Font 3 to the mythical 8's
and still plenty more to investigate? 
It's been good to see other activists on the Moors, I would love to hear what you have done?
The bouldering guide to the Moors is developing better than expected so any other help or input would be appreciated.

22 Aug 2010

Powered By Steam

Skelton Tower - Just North of Levisham
After a tip off from Roger - He spied some small steep edges along Levisham Bottom just above the Pickering railway line (Click here for Location) After a quick web search of walkers blogs the scenery looked good but their wasn't much sign of any rock and the google views looked a bit sparce? But what the hell it was somewhere different to try
A great leaning block near the tower (hard top outs)
The walk to the tower was less than ten minutes easy on the legs (very flat) and the view was excellent. Along the edge were two nice little blocks with enough for a good workout. Further North East was a long over grown low edge, struggled to find much on it but still will definatley be going back for another walk and climb, need to checkout the edges on Saltergate Moor (Click here for Location) might even take the mat on the steam train? the only way to travel to the crag.
Steam Engines every hour
Powered by Steam SS F6b with a hard groove project to the right
Jolly Roger SS F5+
Two worthwhile problems on the small overhanging buttress 100 metres away from the tower, perfect for a picnic and a chillout.

3 Aug 2010

Subterranean Projects and Back on the Moors

Caught up with Liam and Brandon on monday night - they were both very psyched about a prow they had stumbled across just outside Doncaster - curious for a look after watching their crazy footage on vimeo (click here to watch - 18 certificate) you may wonder why anyone would bother to find such places to boulder?
But if you had the most boring square on any OS map (click here) near where you lived and not a sniff of decent rock for over an hours drive,  some deep investigating is needed - and this venue was just that, it was like the journey to the centre of the earth - worth it though the technical moves got harder as you got closer to the spicy top out, they were both very close to getting it as the light faded.
Liam on the 'Into the Light Project'
Back to the Moors
After passing two nice looking edges on the way back from Middle Head Crag - decided to march across the lower edges of High Blakey Moor - Firstly dropping on to Hill House Nab (click here for location)
Applied Mathematics SS font 6c+ arete-mono-mono-arete-top-class
The arete in the background is four metres high and the leaning boulder on top has lines on it - back with spotters I think.
At this point I was happy with the findings on this crag, but curiosity got hold of me as it always does - and another power trudge followed - to be continued?

1 Aug 2010

Misty Mountains and Sparkling White Granite Part One

After a long wait - a trip to Ireland was a reality at last, found a great place to stay on the West side of the Wicklow mountains just five kilometeres away from the dramatic peak of Lugnaquilla.
On the first morning Lisa was tired so sneaked out and shot up Lugnaquilla, hoping to get a glimpse of the North and South Prisons, even though the mist covered the view, thoughts of it clearing spurred me on to the top....  No luck!
    What I saw!                                    The North Prison - Impressive cluster
For me the trip back down was an enjoyable experience everyone was so chatty and friendly, a very warm welcome to Wicklow.

Be aware It is quite dangerous as the North Prison is part of an artillery range - You can phone the Glen of Immal Army Warden Office on 045404653 - for information.

A wet day monday saw a retreat to Dublin for a bit of site seeing - Guinness - Eating - a bustling friendly city.

Tuesday saw a turn in the weather and we were lucky enough to have Dave Flanagan join us on a trip down Glenmulure. Dave is working on a long awaited bouldering guide to Ireland that should be out early 2011 - you can download his free guide here (Click Here to Download), And a sample of the new guide can be downloaded here (Click Here to Download) The area is Glenmalure and is scattered with glittering white granite. Here are the highlights of our day in the Glen and upper terraces.
Fraughan Glen named after the sheer amount of Fraughan berries growing, Lisa and Dave had a good attempt to try and eat them all! very tasty. 
Dave Flanagan on Crowd Control 6a+ - Fraughan Rock
Fraughan Rock the largest boulder in lower Glen held lines almost all the way round - with varied climbing on quality problems.
Tricky moves on Blue Tongue 6c (no arete) - Fraughan Rock
After this we ventured up to Art's Lough and the upper terraces this had some amazing unclimbed blocks and edges to explore.
Dave on Art Attack finish
Art Attack 7a - Art's Lough - Ciaran's Boulder - Classic
Lastly up to the higher Foxburrow terrace to a stunning clean cut block called the White Elephant
Dave on the Immaculate Slab on the Elephant Boulder
The Elephant Boulder
Musophobia 6b - Elephant Boulder
The problems were world class and the climbing so varied, I found myself using every tool in the box to gain success on the problems and the setting speaks for itself, the rock is a pleasure to climb - wild bouldering at it's best.
Thirsty Work
A big thanks to Dave, who flew up and down the hills like a mountain goat!, Check out sample of the new guide - it looks fresh and simple to use, full of projects, great problems and undiscovered classics to come, I'll order mine now

Also check http://www.theshortspan.com/ and http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/  for news and area updates - you can also submit any new problems onto a database.