31 Dec 2012

With a Bang

What a way end a brilliant climbing/exploring/getting on stuff that was not dry at last! year.
This last trip was a flying visit to Scotland, The Coastal blocks near Aberdeen (Thanks to Mike's wiliness to Drive 18 hours there and back)
 It's a place of endless beauty and geology that will probably be still left totally unchartered even in ten of my lifetimes. What a resource if you are prepared to put the effort in.
We had a perfectly crazy day, beating the sun to rise then voluntarily getting stranded by the tide
As always I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

Anyway, happy new year and a big thanks to all that I have climbed with, been inspired by or just plain out there doing it, without you all I would be lost. Cheers, I tip my bobble hat off to you.
Bagging an 8 on sunrise, not too shabby
What a block I'll be back for the arete on the right, Optimus Prime
Quickly moving on to 'Big Grey' block
Not another 8! must have ate too many sweets
Sublime golden arete glittering with mica in the sun
Also had a foam party
Skye wanted the tide to go out, Mike just carried on

16 Dec 2012

Into the Darkness

A darkness has been rising on the Moors, weather systems that hold you back, frozen blocks waiting for the solstice, gaining more time every day to bathe longer in sunlight. 
Time to fight back and embrace the dark side, The thing is you need more than a trial of bread crumbs when you wander into the wooded canopy of Ingleby woods, like the Incline the blocks are spread out quite randomly, making the place hard to map, not the place for the roadside boulderer. 
But s*d it, I'm determined to map the woods, even if it gets done after the guide is finished, I'll put it up free on the web when it's done.
Quality rock hidden under the dense canopy
Sports Directs greatest athlete Steve Phelps on a classy arete

9 Dec 2012

On the Fence

Things to finish off, yet still looking at stuff I've seen before, some out of reach, some maybe in the realms of delusion, some just plain slimy, but as always I am the ever optimist, putting stuff in the bank to go back to later, things just need to climbed, because it's there and the physical puzzle of the problem looks good, why care if anyone else is inspired, its just there 

Finally the Wainstones is sorted! quite a circuit up there, partly in condition as always, letting you  enjoy some problems even after the dumping of snow

Sunday for the first time walked up to Highcliffe, which was I think quite dry considering, some very slopey landings, with some fine high-ball problems/routes with no gear. Yes and some bouldering!? again in the category of are you inspired to clean, how often is it in condition? and the landings are terrible, still some lines will be ticking away in the back of my mind, maybe my best friend the spade will spend a week up there with me after the guide is finished and sort the landings out?

After this returned to the Earthworks ridge, a spread out mixed up set of edges, some blocks are green, others are finely blackened weathered sandstone, Plenty of problems for the roaming connoisseur, nothing fantasy league, but a good day out when in condition.
The left arete on the 'Do' boulder
Earthworks Slab, windy, cold and wet boggy ground (Check out the wet pant bottoms) The plan was to go to Roseberry but that would be Artic!

1 Dec 2012

Snow Way

In the same boat as most climbers at the moment, trying to keep one step ahead of the H2O falling; Good job we have plenty of stuff to check over. 
Fighting against a change in forecast, we managed to get on a surprisingly dry Smugglers' Terrace, this will be a good little Winter venue, the rock is so good. Got the shots I needed there and then managed a frustrating slab problem border-line ascent. Not my style at all - quite a wrestle. You could hear the angry shouting in Whitby! Then moved on to Stoupe Brow, which suffers this time of year from SAD (Seasonal Affective Disorder) as it's in a bit of an amphitheater. I also really need a shot of someone on Requiem, what a line. If anyone has one please send it to me.
As we left, the clouds were brewing from the west and the frozen cliffs were too dangerous to risk a drop into Rocky Point; a mad cluster that is very risky, but I love those kind of venues, maybe because you feel like you've earned any ascent just by making it there?
So headed to Ingleby Incline with high hopes of exposed blocks in the sun; but down came the snow and put the dampers on that, so time for a wander on the longest stretch of rock in the moors.....
Biotic Crisis on Smugglers - 7a possibly after a 3 hour grade debate with Steve. Check out the public footpath arrow on the block to the right, or is it a font traverse?
Bed for the night Ingleby woods
Looking back at the incline - a place once called 'Siberia' by the workers up there
Incline Top was known locally as "Siberia" due to the exposed position on the moor top. Here workers pose for the camera. The gentleman top left is believed to be John Willy Featherstone who lived and worked at Incline Top and later Battersby Junction. The 1891 census records Joe Featherstone and John Collier living in houses at Incline Top - courtesy Alan Collier.
As it is today - Industrial Archaeology 
Two lovers hiding in Ingleby woods, well it is shooting season.